The important thing, our guide Norman tells us at the start of our rhino trek, is not to make any sudden or fast movements. These big beasts might weigh a couple of tons but they can go from nought to 35 miles an hour in seconds. “Be slow and be respectful, these are the rules of engagement,” he says. “Basically we are knocking on their door. If you show good manners that’s when you get results.”
And can we please turn our phones to airplane mode. Poachers greedy for rhino horn – at $100,000 a kilo worth twice as much as gold – are always on the alert for GPS giveaways.